While waiting for his new retail space in the city center to open soon, we reached Umit Benan back at his cozy nest on the outskirts of Milan. “I pruned the plantains that shaded the windows,” he mentioned, shielding a few sun rays from his eyes and collecting key pieces of the new fall 2025 collection. As luck would have it, that light became the perfect thing to show off the innovations of the new lineup. Debuting effulgent silks, Benan’s renewed wardrobe embraced the contrasts of highlights and shadows with a set of neutral tints and a wise use of fine fabrics.
Letting go of storytelling, the house leads its customers into a world tailored to their most intimate desires, often based around the concept of ‘cuddling.’ “I don’t want to talk about impeccable craftsmanship anymore, that’s our duty as designers,” Benan said. “I want to reach the highest standards ever by improving finishings, fabrics, products: the biggest goal is for a garment to pamper you.” Style comes naturally to his designs, with volumes that fish from his American affinities and a recurrent interest in the ’80s.
With comfort as a focus, Benan worked on the fluidity of his designs, letting clothes navigate far from the body, freeing movements and intentions. A new pair of trousers peeped out by getting rid of front pleats, a contemporary version of ’90s stretchy models. Classic poplin light blue shirts deceived the eye—they were made of ultra-light cashmere. “Half of our women’s wardrobe is brand new,” the designer added. “We introduced skirts for the first time, satin sets with bralettes included and bias cut dresses contrasting their luminosity with the textured wools.” Fluidity, at the end, is not only a technique, but a feeling that embodies Benan’s designs and wearers. With a masculine wardrobe that blended into his feminine counterpart, long coats and specular shapes were his wintery propositions, offering a sort of uniform dressing that, far from trends, will never grow old.
