Zegna, Prada, Cucinelli, Brioni, Our Legacy and More

MILAN — There were fewer brands showing their fall men’s collections in Milan, but there were plenty of ideas that left retailers upbeat about the season.

The runway shows by Prada, Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani and Zegna, which anchored the four-day calendar, were widely praised, as were the presentations from tailoring brands ranging from Brunello Cucinelli to Brioni.

Despite the slimmer schedule, “the calendar was rich with presentations and showroom visits that more than made up for this,” said Bruce Pask, senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus. “The collections and shows were strong, and the menswear market feels robust, leading to an optimism and enthusiasm that was felt throughout the week.”  

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew, said, “the season delivered a refreshing perspective on men’s sportswear and tailoring, emphasizing key fashion trends and novelty styles that continue to resonate in the market.”

Voluminous coats, drop-shouldered jackets, languid tailoring and wide-leg pants continued to dominate the collections, as did velvet, cashmere, corduroy, and other textural fabrics — in some cases vicuña — which contributed to raise the luxury quotient of the designs. The double-breasted suit was revisited in deconstructed, superlight versions that felt modern. Layering; an expansive range of knitwear — also worn as outerwear; faux fur, and striking shearling collars were also strong trends.

Retailers forecast Prada and Ralph Lauren’s western wear — cue the former’s cowboy boots — will be hits.

Here is what retailers said of the season.

Bruce Pask, senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Prada’s western-inflected collection was a winner, with some of the best coats of the season featuring gorgeous rough-cut oversize shearling collars alongside cowboy boots for every mood and a surprising, skinny pant that has the fashion crowds talking. Brioni’s collection of luxurious outerwear and versatile fine tailoring and eveningwear had a wonderful modernity. Brunello Cucinelli’s easy, modern wardrobe of layered knitwear, dressed-up suits, relaxed tailored separates, and denim sport jackets felt very refreshing. Simon Holloway’s ode to the iconic suiting and style of the Duke of Windsor at Dunhill was elegant, modern menswear for today’s gentleman. Zegna’s slouchy suits, sport jackets, and oversize topcoats in large-scaled glen plaids, patchworked tweeds, and variegated corduroy in rich, earthy tones was wonderful. I was also quite charmed by Pierre-Louis Mascia’s debut Milan show, a fantasy of Baroque printed silks that was cleverly styled.  

Best presentation concept: Prada’s triple-tiered, labyrinthine, piped scaffolding warren of runways contrasted against legendary production designer Catherine Martin’s Baroque patterned carpeting was a stunning setting. It was an incredibly rare treat to be invited to visit the Art Deco-era archives and library of Gerolamo Etro for the brand’s presentation. Zegna’s grass-covered berms wonderfully evoked the sheep pastures and source of their award-winning wool featured in the collection.   

Trendspotting: We saw the many moods of tailoring, from dressed-up suits with shirts and ties, to a more relaxed take on softly tailored separates and sport jackets, often undone, worn with easy knits. The versatile shirt jacket still has importance as a wardrobe multitasker and layering various weights of outerwear and knitwear is key. Coincidentally, numerous presentations, including Brioni, featured clothing shown on dancers in motion, highlighting the modernity and everyday appeal of tailoring. Proportion continues to have prominence through voluminous coats, drop-shouldered jackets, and the wide-leg pant. Velvet, corduroy, and other textural fabrics added a richness to most collections. There was a touch of the old American west, from a whipstitched suede jacket at Ralph Lauren and the snap-front shirts at Sartorio to the cowboy boot cavalcade and stitched detailing at Prada. Outerwear was opulent, with faux fur and substantial shearling collars adorning traditional topcoats at Dolce & Gabbana and Prada. Technical skiwear and performance-driven outerwear had a big presence. The season’s color palette was earthy and rich, with burgundy and loden most important.   

Must-have item: Prada’s shearling-collared coats and cowboy boots, Church’s high-frequency brogues, Brunello Cucinelli’s geometric jacquard cardigans and fleece western shirt, a velvet dinner jacket, the multitasking shirt jacket, and a soft tweed suit or sport jacket.  

David Theilebuele, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Prada, Giorgio Armani and Zegna.

Best presentation concept: Tailoring at Corneliani and Brioni embraced an effortless, almost weightless quality. The softer, more fluid suiting allowed for unrestricted movement — ideal for the dance at both presentations — infusing the collections with a distinctly modern edge.

Trendspotting: It’s the perfect season for an “American Gigolo” reboot — if anyone has one in the works. Louche, languid tailoring has become a major trend in Milan and Florence. Oversize overcoats, especially in the deepest shades of gray, have taken over showrooms and the streets. Beyond the easy tailoring, there’s a sense that designers are encouraging us to escape into the wild. Even Mr. Armani tapped into this adventurous spirit, kicking off his stellar Emporio show with EA7 parkas and oversize backpacks. At a brilliant Prada show, the models seemed to barely have time to grab faux fur wraps and coats to throw over their pajamas before setting off for parts unknown.

Must-have item: Another hallmark of the ’80s: the unstructured double-breasted jacket will be an essential.

General comment on the season: Military touches alongside evening suits. Classic checks, plaids, and herringbones accented with a scattering of crystals and sequins. Milan presented many ideas, but the prevailing theme was dichotomy. In an uncertain world, it seems men must be prepared for anything.

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli and Prada.

Best presentation concept: Matteo Tamburini’s vision for Tod’s was a stunning showcase of classic Italian elegance and artistry. The ready-to-wear pieces were sophisticated, complemented by a focus on updates to leather shoes and sneakers and innovative iterations of bags. The setting inside Villa Necchi provided the perfect backdrop for this refined collection.

Trendspotting: The suit is back! Tailored clothing took center stage this season in Milan, with suiting dominating how we envision our customers dressing for fall. Relaxed and tailored silhouettes were prevalent at Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Kiton, offering a broad range of options for today’s modern gentleman. Formalwear also made a strong impression at Dolce & Gabbana and Brunello Cucinelli, featuring updates such as cashmere denim and luxurious silks. Western wear was seen strongest at Prada and Ralph Lauren with a more bohemian flair to the collections. Standouts were the fringed knit sweaters, updates to the cowboy boot and whipstitch leather details. Burgundy is set to be next fall’s standout color, styled beautifully with espresso browns and rich ivory in fabrics like corduroy, wool, and suede.

Must-have item: This fall, it’s all about the layered knit. Brunello Cucinelli showcased some of the season’s finest knits in wool mélange and cashmere hybrids. Zegna and Canali stood out with their approach to knitwear as outerwear, styling knits over knits and draping them over the shoulders, for a sophisticated, layered look.

Buying process: Sportswear and tailoring took the spotlight this season. We dedicated significant time in showrooms, focusing on fabric selections and fits to ensure we’re offering a complete wardrobe for our customers.

General comment on the season: The show schedule in Milan was lighter this season, with brands like Gucci, Fendi and Tom Ford opting to present in February with coed shows. Despite the reduced schedule, we successfully connected with our established brand partners and explored new brands in the market like Pierre-Louis Mascia.

Young-Su Kim, divisional merchandise manager at Bergdorf Goodman 

Favorite collections: Mordecai, Brioni, Kiton, Prada, Brunello Cucinelli and Zegna.

Best presentation concept: Mordecai and Brioni were exceptional in their staging. Both featured contemporary dancers in lieu of models. The movement highlighted the ease and lightness of layers and the dynamism of the clothes. 

Trendspotting: Ease, lightness, movement and layering as seen at Mordecai and Brioni. British influences in tweeds and donegals as well as exploded plaids from Kiton, Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli. Chunky cardigans as outerwear were seen at Brunello Cucinelli and Giorgio Armani. Chocolate brown is the new beige and charcoal is the new black, thanks to Zegna’s strong palette. Western nods from cowboy boots to dark indigo denim were seen at Prada, as well as shearling as the main fabric for coats.

General comment on the season: The volume and relaxed fits in tailoring, drop-shoulder coats, and wide-leg trousers from last season continue to look modern, but now with a welcome jolt of saturated jewel tones that look especially gorgeous in cashmere knitwear, corduroy and velvet. Milan is particularly strong for luxe menswear powerhouse brands Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli and Brioni, all of whom are masterful at combining traditional tailoring with more everyday sportswear in a way that looks believable and fresh.

Tiziana Fausti, owner of 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti

Favorite collections: Prada and Armani

Best presentation concept: MM6 Maison Margiela and Brioni

Trendspotting: Denim and straight-leg pants; Texas mood; chocolate, ocher and military colors; leather blousons, and suede jackets and shirts, as well as checkered fabrics.

Must-have item: Prada boots and bags, Magliano sartorial blazer, Armani coats.

Budgets: A slight increase.

General comment on the season: We had an excellent start of the season in Milan and Florence, with many presentations with a precise and timely DNA. We expect to see other collections with revisited tailoring accents, a “respectable” style, minimal yet contemporary. Brown and earth colors dominate.

Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director at Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Prada as always was my highlight show experience. I loved the collection even if it wasn’t always the most wearable; there were a lot of must-haves, from the leather suit to the super commercial navy blouson jacket with small ’90s logo, and western-inspired bicolor knit. The bags and shoes were also standout. I loved how much newness there was within the accessories collection; it’s been awhile since I’ve seen such an exciting new bag walk the shows. Dolce & Gabbana also deserves a mention this season, the show was lighthearted and just fun, watching the front row having a good time is also part of the experience. There was a lot to like, highlights for me were the brown velvet three-piece suit and the OTT leopard coat. Our Legacy was just so good this season! It’s always a highlight when it comes to commerciality but it’s even better again for the coming season with more must-have pieces than usual. Their developments particularly in soft tailoring and leather outerwear are fantastic. Understated but considered, it’s a brand that continues to root itself firmly in reality and wearability.

Trendspotting: Outerwear as always is a key focus for the season, and it’s bolder and more impactful than last year. There is a thrift store/vintage approach to this category with a lot of faux fur and tweed options, often seen in an oversize fit or as in a peacoat. There was also a lot of military inspiration with a lot of flight jackets and aviator shearlings, with my favorites coming from Our Legacy, CP Company in leather which is new for them, and also Brioni.

Must-have item: I loved the oversize bowling bags from Prada. They looked pre-loved as if picked up from a vintage store, in great color combinations and actually big enough to use — we still see functionality and ease of use being key for what’s selling in our bag business, but rarely do we see this combined so well with what is sure to also be a true fashion lover’s bag for next season. It’s all about a new pair of boots this season, whether it’s an exaggerated cowboy boot from Prada or a new hiking boot from Church’s or Brunello Cucinelli.

New names to watch: Umit Benan is by no means a new name to the industry, but at the start of a new chapter within the brand’s journey, with a recent new team and investment. The attention to detail was impressive; superb fabrications, modern cuts but with a timeless approach to wardrobe building. It’s luxury product at a luxury price point, but the touch and fit explained the story.

Reginald Christian, senior fashion manager, menswear at Saks

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that explored the beauty of playful shapes, contrasting materials and the pure joy of unconventional dressing. Throughout the collection there was a mash-up of western-Americana rockstar, and 1970s-style dressing, vibrant plaid overcoats, moss green suede suit and fur hides draped against and inside the garments. For his fall 2025 collection, Mr. Brunello Cucinelli invited us to explore a rediscovered and remixed collection, tailoring the most modern style. Creating distinctive elements of unique cashmere and wool blends, his knitwear assortment was a standout offering of rare fabrics with a Shetland aesthetic yet incredibly soft and cozy. The Kiton collection was a stunning offering of the style journey through artisanal designs and the most desirable fabrics, such as vicuña. The brand continues to push the code of elegance and details, creating a modern offering that supports relaxed and refined suiting. At Dolce & Gabbana, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent forth a collection reminiscent of the 2000s style of effortless everyday dressing with charm. Statement outerwear paired down with a classic T-shirt and wide denim or cargo pants felt very Dolce and interestingly desirable. Giorgio Armani showcased a compelling collection of incredible styling and silhouettes that felt like the best example of ’80s-style modernized for today’s gentleman. From wool bombers to suede with shearling parkas, outerwear was substantial and made a statement. For Zegna’s fall 2025 collection, artistic director Alessandro Sartori sent forth a sensational collection full of seasonal colors such as plum, moss green, mocha, tan and gray. Introducing new shapes, such as cropped bombers and cocoon overcoats, Zegna’s fall 2025 offering was full of elevated expressions of tailoring and eye-catching outerwear that reflected the evolution of the brand. Isaia presented its second runway collection, which was rich in texture from corduroy, suede field and biker jackets to cashmere gilets and walking coats. 

Best presentation concept: Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Canali, Broni and Mordecai.

Trendspotting: Overarching themes of the English countryside, western-Americana and alpine mountains influenced key trends seen throughout, such as interesting novelty knits from Fair Isle and jacquard to ribbed and plush knitwear. Soft tailoring was updated for the man on the go with soft double-breasted blazers, relaxed sartorial trousers and jersey wovens, allowing him to easily layer up his wardrobe. Texture was a major trend of the season from the suede overshirt to adding corduroy shirts and pants as an element of depth. Elegant formalwear stood out with jewel-tone velvet jackets along with luxurious cashmere travel sets seen at Ralph Lauren. Lightweight and comfortable trail boots, sleek leather loafers and both retro and trainer-style sneakers were seen throughout the market. The utility backpack and super-size weekend bag were key as well. 

Must-have item: Prada’s vintage-style suede bowling bag.

General comment on the season: The Milan fall collections remind us of the importance of touch — connecting with nature through elegance, the charm of luxurious trimmings and details. With overarching themes of alpine mountain seen at Ralph Lauren, English countryside seen at Zegna and western-Americana seen at Prada, clothing reflected the fluidity of movement and modern silhouettes that embodied innovation, texture and soft finishes. From Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, Isaia, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani, each brand continues to showcase the best examples of dynamic and modern tailoring. Prada sent forth a collection and ushered in the freshest direction of dressing that also honored the freedom of choice. Dolce & Gabbana reminded us that going back to your roots is never a bad idea, and Isaia debuted its womenswear collection on the runway. Overall, the collections felt extremely connected to the magic of timeless style and will certainly address the shopping preferences of our clients come fall 2025. 

Alice Feillard, menswear buying director at Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Prada, Zegna, Our Legacy and Magliano.

Best presentation concept: The unexpected wedding of Jordan and Luca at the end of the [JordanLuca] show — genius and so sweet!

Trendspotting: A wardrobe of elevated classics with a twist, textured soft tailoring in sophisticated fabrics (tweeds and flannels, houndstooth and Prince of Wales), a season of beautiful coats with many leather, shearling and furry pieces. The outdoor-gorpcore trend is still strong: fashion meets performance with elevated technical garments.

Must-have item: Prada classic three-button coat, clean suit and western boots.

Budgets: Flat.

General comment on the season: Pitti was a strong session while Milan felt a bit poor, we missed the big Italian brands that skipped the menswear shows this season (Gucci, Fendi, Valentino). There weren’t so many surprises and excitement.

Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma

Favorite collections: Prada! I can’t stop watching it over and over again. Every look is incredible — spontaneous, instinctive, and full of a desire to dream and fall in love with fashion all over again.

Best presentation concept: During Pitti Uomo, MM6 Maison Margiela was excellent. The venue was a classic spot in Florence, incredibly beautiful, and the collection was a reinterpretation of classic menswear. We also loved Magliano and Uma Wang.

Trendspotting: Vintage classy, traditional and sartorial man, but all with great fit. 

Must-have item: Denim jacket, long coat, formal shoes, and maybe some fur to add a daring touch. 

Buying process: It’s all about discovery — new names, new talent. We are exploring and seeking fresh perspectives, aiming to return to our roots as pioneers in research. Our goal is to embrace the stories of the brands we collaborate with and seamlessly integrate them into our own narrative. 

General comment on the season: This season feels more exciting — the collections are stronger, with a return to classics reinterpreted through modern cuts, excellent tailoring and a refined color palette. So far, Milan hasn’t had much energy, with only a few major brands hosting shows. However, Pitti was buzzing with activity, [it was] full of people, although it offered few innovations.

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director at Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Zegna, Prada, Emporio Armani, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Canali, Massimo Alba and Our Legacy.

Best presentation concept: Zegna turned the Milano Convention Center into a verdant, hilly escape from the rain outside. Inspired by the Victoria, NSW sheep farm whose ultrafine merino won Zegna’s prestigious wool prize, it was the perfect setting for the latest collection from Alessandro Sartori, who put together an impressive collection.

Trendspotting: Brushed wools, tweed textures, shearling-lined coats, wide wale corduroy, cropped boxy jackets, convertible collar sport coats, and a more elegant take on gorp.

Must-have item: A buttery high-collared leather bomber from Zegna with a trompe l’oeil glen plaid lining. 

General comment on the season: Elegant layers and enticing outerwear make for an exciting menswear season with a focus on earth-toned colors, rich leather and suede, and luxe textures.  

Simon Longland, buying director, fashion at Harrods

Favorite collections: Prada, Brioni and Zegna emerged as my standout collections this season in Milan, each striking a balance between timeless craftsmanship and forward-thinking design.

Best presentation concept: Brioni’s use of dancers to spotlight the softness and ease of its impeccably tailored pieces made for the most memorable presentation concept — an ingenious display of how luxury can be both refined and comfortable. Zegna excelled in presenting fluid silhouettes with expert layering, delivering a modern twist on tailoring through meticulous construction and a conscientious approach to materials.

Trendspotting: From a trend perspective, Milan’s menswear appears to be splitting into two camps: one that prioritizes investment-worthy classics in neutral tones, and another that embraces a more directional, fashion-forward sensibility — yet both share an emphasis on layering, lightness and sustainability.

Must-have item: Prada’s cowboy boot tops the list, followed closely by exaggerated shearling collars and anything in that rich “bitter chocolate” hue.

Budgets: There’s a clear shift toward purchasing fewer, higher-quality pieces — those that can stand the test of time while still making a statement. This focus on longevity naturally shapes the buying process, as retailers and consumers alike seek collections where every piece feels like a sound investment.

General comment on the season: Overall, this season underscores a new era for menswear — where conscious design, refined tailoring, and modern versatility come together to define luxury and style.

Daniel Todd, buying director at Mr Porter

Favorite collection: Our Legacy’s subtle infusion of British heritage stood out for me this season. The impressive use of tweeds, Barbour-style and Harrington jackets, blended with the collection’s muted, earthy color palette, were a nod to the transition of the seasons — which evoked the essence of the English countryside. The duality of the collection’s embrace of heritage and modernity speaks to the refined, yet cool sensibility of our customers.

Best presentation concept: Brioni reimagined the traditional show format through a contemporary dance performance, which powerfully showcased the brand’s enduring elegance. The dancers highlighted the garments’ opulent textures, crisp lines, and relaxed, airy silhouettes through movement, reaffirming the new collection’s embrace of lightness intertwined with impeccable craftsmanship.

Must-have item: A classic overcoat is essential. Zegna’s relaxed, chocolate brown overcoat complemented by a popped, check pattern collar infused heritage with modernity — making it one of my most coveted pieces this season. 

Trendspotting: Relaxed tailoring is key this season, encouraging fluidity between every day and formal. Dunhill embraced this trend vividly through [Simon] Holloway’s more casual, relaxed approach to his refined aesthetic — while not compromising the brand’s formal sensibilities and rich fabric selection. 

General comment on the season: I’ve been impressed by how experimental designers have been with pattern-mixing and fabric this season, particularly applied to tailoring. Zegna and Our Legacy spoke to this fluidly through mixing classic patterns like checks and houndstooth, across an array of relaxed and outerwear, providing for a sophisticated yet modern update to wardrobe staples for the upcoming season.

Raphaël Deray, buying manager for men’s luxury and designers at Printemps

Favorite collections: Prada and Magliano

Best presentation concept: Dolce & Gabbana. I liked the fact that there wasn’t a group walk at the end of the show but rather a display of great eveningwear.

Trendspotting: A lot of fur (fur coats, fur hoods, fur collars), darker tones (black, gray, dark green) despite seeing some hints of red, corduroy is back, animal prints, some military inspiration in the outerwear (field jackets, trenchcoats…).

Must-have item: A long fur coat.

Budgets: Flat budgets as the fashion industry is going through some uncertain times. 

General comment on the season: Milan Fashion Week was very calm this season, with just a few shows on the schedule and not much happening. 

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada has been one of the strongest shows for the high level of creativity and the strong styling image. Dolce & Gabbana has moved from full black DNA to a day to night full wardrobe proposal with a lot of novelties and eye-catching looks.

Best presentation concept: Prada’s industrial metal structure.

Trendspotting: Full denim, heavy winter outerwear and cowboy look.

Must-have item: Prada boots in all variations, denim coat, pajama suits, Dolce & Gabbana full velvet look, Zegna wide-legs pant to be matched with a jacket or a caban.

Budgets: Strong increase.

General comment on the season: The season has been very interesting, despite the lack of some shows moved to February, with a strong focus on rtw with nice novelties in denim, leather and outerwear. The tailoring offering hinged on winter materials or matched with heavy knitwear. Designers have focused more on creating a full wardrobe proposal in line with the clienteling strategies all the brands are exploring.