MILAN — At Milan Men’s Fashion Week, traditional tailoring was reimagined by the likes of Corneliani, Pal Zileri, Massimo Alba, Cesare Attolini and Maison Zilli. New fits and volumes and innovative cuts contributed to the rejuvenated image of the designs, which at times reprised archival textiles or heritage looks. Lightness was a key element, as the styles continued to be easy and nonchalant — men are not willing to give up on comfort.
Corneliani celebrated camaraderie among men with a collection called “Get Closer,” said style director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte. This message was telegraphed through a performance by three dancers choreographed by Kate Coyne, the artistic director of the Central School of Ballet in London, replicating symbolic gestures of connecting and greeting one another. “This is also a message of union, at work and in life, how garments serve as tools for communicating, but also how you get closer with your clothes on your body, how you feel them,” he said.
The proportions for fall were new, reinterpreting the brand’s aesthetic with a sharper, more defined look. Traditional Italian wools such as gabardine and tricotine showed three-dimensional textures, contributing to “more compact shapes, yet also still relaxed on top,” worn over slimmer pants, said Gaudioso Tramonte. Outerwear and knitwear were soft, as were the single-breasted and double-breasted cashmere coats, the soft napa leather jackets, and cocooning knits with mélange effects and gradient needlework. The fall color palette was accented by antique pink, and lime and moss green.
Corneliani fall 2025
Lorenzo Baroncelli
For fall 2025, Pal Zileri took a deep dive into the rich archives of parent company Forall, which traces back to the ‘70s and made a name for itself for its more accessible approach to men’s formalwear — hence the name of the firm, “for all.”
The sartorial know-how gained through the years was displayed in retro-tinged tailoring reprising archival textiles, and was deployed to shed new light on classic shapes, as seen in a two-button suit cut from jersey for utter comfort or what the company dubbed the “new suit,” meaning an elevated safari shirt and matching pants conveying a more casual feel.
The brand, which kicked off 2025 with a retail boost expanding at Printemps and opening two doors at El Corte Ingles, also unveiled a collaboration with another storied Italian company. To enhance its sartorial attire, it joined forces with Borsalino on a special edition of hats, lining the Marengo felt Federico style with Forall’s signature lagoon green color, which also subtly peeked from Borsalino’s grosgrain ribbon on the hatband.
Pal Zileri fall 2025
Courtesy of Pal Zileri
The broken suit was all the rage at Massimo Alba, who showed his fall collection at his whimsical showroom talking about his undeterred commitment to “authenticity, identity and attitude.” The designer mined a sophisticated but understated wardrobe, in which tactile moleskin or velvet pants were paired with single-breasted blazers with stand-up collars, halfway between tailoring and outerwear. Ditto for the double-breasted pinstriped blazer with generous lapels crafted from an outerwear-appropriate, 700-gram cashmere felt.
The brand’s tailoring vocabulary expanded to include suits nodding to workwear, featuring shirt jackets and drawstring pants. “It’s a collection very much rooted in the codes of our sartorial tradition and culture, but we’ve worked to bring a certain ease to it,” Alba said.
They mingled with utilitarian outerwear, including handsome waxed cotton options with a lived-in feel.
Massimo Alba men’s fall 2025
Courtesy of Massimo Alba
A true Neapolitan tailoring firm, whose business has traditionally been rooted in bespoke and made-to-measure, Cesare Attolini has increasingly beefed up its ready-to-wear collections, now generating a good chunk of sales.
The company hit many of the season’s trends in tailoring, with its signature British and Scottish heritage plaids and checks plied into lightweight and warm suits and outerwear. A handsome checkered field jacket was reminiscent of hunting attire done in subtle but slightly flamboyant shades of green, while gingham single-breasted blazers made style statements when paired with lean solid pants for a broken suit.
As part of its ambition to appeal to a new audience willing to spend on garments tailored with detail-obsessive care, Attolini introduced its first black range, with suits and herringbone coats offered in a gradient palette that included charcoal and gunmetal gray.
Cesare Attolini men’s fall 2025
Courtesy of Cesare Attolini
Storied French menswear brand Maison Zilli, backed by new investors, was in the right element unveiling its fall collection in Milan, a season that has seen legacy brands offering a traditional wardrobe with a new spin.
Channeling its sartorial craftsmanship into tailored and more casual looks, the lineup stood out for its lightweight, yet cocooning suits defined by regular pants and double-breasted blazers, in a balance of rigor and softness. Letting volumes run freely, pleated pants became anchoring garments for a more casual interpretation of the business look, paired with a cable-knit sweater with shawl collars over a shirt and a tie.
Field, biker and shirt jackets abounded, the latter offered, for example, in a forest green quilted version that was particularly appealing.
Zilli men’s fall 2025
Courtesy of Zilli
