“‘Undercover-style’ real clothes,”’ declared a statement elicited from the studio in Tokyo. “We continued from the previous 2025 pre-spring season to incorporate punk elements such as graphic patchwork, badges, safety pins, patches, and studs.”
There were statements on the clothes, too: “We make noise not clothes” and “You don’t know me” were amongst the declarations patched, badged, or printed on a collection that, as the note said, took a punkish position. There were also nods to mods and skinheads in the cleanliness of the anglo-prep styling and the inclusion of pieces such as the fishtail parka, chino, and crombie coat. Safety pin chains and razor blade necklaces were more Undercover motifs used to muddy the conventional dadness of argyle cardigans, pastel sweatshirts, and roomy trench coats. Shoes by Kids Love Gaite were wreathed in more studs and hardware. A jacket featured a Camden-ready biker body, all black leather and gold zippers, but was sleeved in quilted black down. Nostalgic, stylized, and gently subversive, this Undercover was a finely crafted survey of the many ways in which past generations of English adolescents have adopted the garments of their elders, but worn them as a form of criticism rather than tribute.
