Rather than staging a runway show this season, Frederik Berner Kühl opted to hold a relaxed presentation at his recently opened Copenhagen store—a format that suited both the tactility of his garments and the quality of craftsmanship on display. For fall 2025, the designer worked with Hancock, the former Mackintosh factory in Scotland, to create two waterproof coats made from rubberized cotton, which were hand glued at the seams. There was a renewed focus on natural materials, from the buttery suede jacket and trousers (a new fabrication for the brand) to the ribbed pants, blended with cashmere to create the perfect drape.
While these elevated everyday staples were very much a continuation of what’s come before, Berner Kühl subtly played with proportions this season. Fitted tops and cardigans were paired with wide pants, creating a “triangle shape.” Elsewhere, this silhouette was inverted, via the boxy jackets and puffer coats teamed with straight-leg trousers made from deadstock materials.
Still, the idea was—as it always is at Berner Kühl—to create a wardrobe that you can easily mix and match. “You can pull stuff out, and no matter what you take, it will go with what’s on another rail,” the designer said during the presentation. As the models walked through the store, posing in the shop window, the appeal was clear: clothes that will effortlessly take you from year to year, season to season.
