Lafayette 148 was founded three decades ago in a factory at 148 Lafayette Street in New York, making women’s wear aimed at what was then called “bridge” — making gently minimalist clothes aimed at working women, priced for those who couldn’t afford true designer labels. One thing that made Lafayette stand out was — and is — its inclusive US sizing from 00 to size 18, with petite and plus sizes as well. Another was that Quinn’s co-founder owned the factory, which also turned out items for Anne Klein, Donna Karan and Ellie Tahari. Lafayette 148 is the rare survivor. The factory moved to China years ago, and the brand’s studio and showroom moved to the Brooklyn Navy Yard in 2017, but the brand remains a fully vertical operation.
Quinn and Smith chose to show their autumn 2025 collection as a presentation at a Chelsea art gallery on Friday afternoon. The presentation format was, in part, a financial choice, Smith says, as runways are expensive. But it was also a move to allow press, store buyers and clients to closely see and touch the clothes, inspired by female textile artists’ work, including the influential Anni Albers, whose designs were as much art as craft.
During the presentation, Smith sipped champagne, welcomed guests and posed for photos. Quinn beamed as she spoke to friends and gushed over how beautiful the space had turned out — a lounge space gave guests a reprieve from the fashion week runabout while textiles lined the wall and floor. She boasted that her team had pulled it all off with little work needed from her (In fact, two days earlier, she had been working on the spring 2026 collection). It was hard to manoeuvre; the crowd was so thick.
It isn’t easy to secure an hour on the official NYFW calendar. Several years ago, when the CFDA shifted from a laissez-faire approach to a strict one-label-per-hour schedule, scores of shows and presentations were shed from the schedule and forced to show off-calendar. But when Lafayette applied for a slot, says Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s chief executive, “approving their application was an easy one”.
“Emily is on our radar. We know Deirdre well. It’s a brand that’s part of our family,” Kolb says.
