There are things that happen backstage that shouldn’t necessarily stay backstage. These are places where something magical can unfold, and in the case of Ermanno Scervino, that magic lies in a level of craftsmanship mastered by only a few. Just moments before the show began, one of his seamstresses made a perfectly curved cut. The dress was too long, and without needing to take measurements—relying solely on her hands and a pair of scissors—she managed to trim it with absolute precision, not missing even a millimeter. In this setting, such a feat is considered a moment of extraordinary normality, because of the quality of craftsmanship and the meticulous artisanal attention to detail in Scervino’s garments. And it’s almost impossible not to see this as a hallmark of luxury.
The fall collection revolved around the idea of cozy sensuality. “I believe that revealing lingerie gives confidence. I like to explore the different meanings femininity can take on, and I think nothing enhances it more than contrasts,” the designer explained. The garments seemed to magnify the nude body, but without explicitly revealing its nudity. Lingerie-inspired dresses, designed for both day and evening wear, were paired with shearling coats or parkas, chunky shearling sweaters or tailored coats with masculine cuts. The bustier construction of the hourglass jackets, crafted from herringbone or pied-de-poule wool, created a striking contrast with the lightness of lace and chiffon.
The most authentic expression of the collection’s essence lay in the embroidery. On crystal-encrusted dresses, floral motifs became visible only through the refraction of light. The long tube dresses, which appeared to be knit, featured a “punto sollevato” technique, an innovative method developed by the Maison, using wool or cotton to create a sort of faux lace in relief. The petit-point embroidery of the sheer dresses also adorned the square-toe ballet flats. A comforting color palette, ranging from white to gray to black, with shades of honey in between, created harmony between pieces designed for everyday wear and those meant for evening elegance.
