When I was on my way to the Kenzo show on Friday, I got a message from Serge Ruffieux, cofounder of accessories brand 1309SR: “Where can I come pick you up? I’ll drop you at your next show.” “Brilliant! Rue Vivienne!” I replied. It was an impromptu arrangement that turned out to be one of the highlights of my day. Which is unusual: adding another presentation to a crammed Paris Fashion Week schedule usually isn’t ideal.
Over two days, Ruffieux and his business partner Émilie Faure took roughly 20 editors in their black van festooned with the brand logo from one show to another. Call it a traveling presentation. Ruffieux presented his AW25 collection of shoes – including the Medusa mule strap and Copy sock boots, plus The Cuddle handbag. Passengers were also on board for a private screening of the brand’s new short As Seen On TV, directed by @RickDick, an Italian artist known for his AI-generated memes. For it, they worked with event production company Petit Ami.
“ It’s very important for us to be present during this unique fashion moment twice a year. But we know that it’s also a very busy time for you, running from one place to another,” says Ruffieux. “In the end, what is important to me is that you were able to see the collection.”
From big shows to big van
The Swiss-Italian designer knows a thing or two about fashion week and its workings. He worked for eight years at Dior including as artistic designer alongside Lucie Meier, following the departure of Raf Simons in 2016 and before the arrival of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Then, he was appointed creative director of Carven in January 2017, which he left in late 2018. In 2021, together with Émilie Faure, he created 1309SR – the name is made up of Ruffieux’s initials and date of birth. Now in its eighth season, 1309SR is available at a dozen points of sale including United Arrows in Japan and Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Ruffieux is currently also shoe design director at Pucci.
It’s a challenging time for smaller brands, between the tough economy, the luxury downturn, the crumbling of e-tail and now possible tariffs imposed by the US on luxury goods. For Ruffieux, it’s all about finding clever ways to present when you have limited resources. “We try to think out of the box to stand out. But in reality, a lot of investment is needed to further develop the brand,” he says.
In the meantime, he’d like to keep the carpool concept for future seasons. By the way, are buyers also coming along for the ride? I ask. “For buyers, there’s still a showroom as they need to focus and tick boxes,” Ruffieux replies.
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