Most people consider fashion to be a relentlessly forward-facing industry, but as anyone who has studied the runways with more than casual interest will know, it’s a world steeped in nostalgia. Rare is the runway trend that hasn’t already had a turn (or three) around the sun in the past. And while creative directors looking to bygone eras is certainly not a new phenomenon, it has kicked into a higher gear over the last decade, as designers lean into the power of the past—particularly when it comes to iconic moments from their own house archives.
Under Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior has orientated its references towards the classic Bar jackets and circle skirts of the 1950s. But if the brand’s latest collection is anything to go by, that could all be set to change. The fall 2025 show revived a hit from its more recent past: former creative director John Galliano’s iconic “J’Adore Dior” tees, which became famous in the Noughties, in no small part thanks to appearances in the Sex and the City universe. Lucy Liu wore it for her season four cameo, and Carrie Bradshaw later wore one in the film Sex and the City 2.
The J’Adore Dior tee 2.0 has been rendered in charcoal-grey jersey and printed with the famed fade-effect lettering. For 2025, Chiuri overlaid the look with gothic lace and styled it with tough leathers, brocade corsetry and whip-cracking riding boots: a far cry from both the girl band cargos that Liu championed back in 2002 and Carrie’s characteristically extra Abu Dhabi souk attire (a purple puffball skirt and a silk cropped jacket).
While I have no doubt that Dior will not be short of buyers for its revamped tee, I will be diving into the archive and sourcing an original to shop second-hand, an idea that eBay’s pre-loved style director, Amy Bannerman, is in full support of. “Not only is it more sustainable, but they can also be found at a fraction of their new prices,” she says. “It’s the best way to get your hands on authentic pieces from past eras.”
HBO
