New year, new wardrobe? Not quite – but a few strategic purchases could make all the difference.
Think something blue and tailored — a coat or a blazer — if one listens to Brunello Cucinelli, Paul Smith and Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, among others.
But if one dares to dare, then leave it to Rick Owens to suggest white alligator jeans as the best refresher a man could buy this year. Or good underwear, according to Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, because it’s often the little details that instantly elevate a look.
WWD asked a range of fashion designers to share their suggestions on how to update a man’s wardrobe with just a few new items in 2025.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Stephane Feugere/WWD
“Long johns, really good gloves and white alligator jeans.”
Véronique Nichanian, men’s artistic director of Hermès
Véronique Nichanian at the Hermès men’s fall 2025 show.
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
“A beautiful suit — or a beautiful piece of leather. The suit can be very casual, too. And a tie, which can even be worn with jeans.”
Paul Smith
Sir Paul Smith
“A blue jacket, soft as a cardigan, and a pair of jeans, although I’m not a big fan of skinny jeans.”
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli with models in a preview for his men’s fall 2024 collection.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
“Navy jacket in light cashmere that you can practically wear 12 months a year.”
Nigo, creative director of Kenzo
Nigo
Dominique Maitre/WWD
“I would say a casual tailored item, and as for the shoes, go beyond sneakers.”
Chitose Abe, founder and creative director of Sacai
Chitose Abe
Kinya/WWD
“My suits can look very chic — and you can wear them casually as well.”
Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna
Alessandro Sartori
Courtesy of Zegna
“The double-breasted blazer with peak labels in black or navy blue.”
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe
Yasutomo EBISU
“A John Smedley crewneck sweater, for its clean lines and comfort. I wear one every day.”
Norbert Stumpfl, creative director of Brioni
Norbert Stumpfl
Fabrizio Martinelli/WWD
“For me it’s the tailored coat. It can be worn with many garments and it’s always bringing a sophistication to every outfit. Of course it should be by Brioni, in a beautiful fabric, in a double-breasted style.”
Alexandre Mattiussi, founder and creative director of Ami Paris
Alexandre Mattiussi at the Armani Prive fall 2024 couture show.
Stephane Feugere/WWD
“I would say a coat, because even if it’s very classic — like a single-breasted or double-breasted, or a soft, oversize coat — it makes you look at a prince in one second….You can be wearing bad jeans, bad trainers, a bad T-shirt, but put on a tailored coat and you look like a rich man.
“I would also say a good pair of trousers, because, again, trousers can make you look very special. Sometimes people only wear jeans….Some people think that classic wool trousers are a bit classic, only for bankers or lawyers. No. You can wear a beautiful pair of wool pants with a pair of sneakers and a white T-shirt. You ‘ll look cool.”
Hun Kim, creative director of Karl Lagerfeld
Hun Kim
Courtesy Photo
“We used to dress much more casually, but I think now people like to dress up a little bit more. Even though that doesn’t necessarily mean formalwear, I’d say a nice shirt and tailored jacket that still kind of has a little bit of casual aspect to it.”
Charles Jeffrey, founder and creative director of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Charles Jeffrey
Courtesy of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
“I would say a man needs to have something with a sense of humor. I think there is a lot of fashion happening right now that is very ‘true to market’ and there’s a lot of sameness going on. People are able to buy into trends really, really quickly and understand them, but there is a lack of real humor. When I mean humor, I don’t mean [things] just to grab attention. It comes with a level of respect. It can be articulated in many different ways: a fabric choice, an accessory, or proportions, but something that ultimately shows you have a sense of humor.”
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, founder and creative director of LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi
Dominique Maitre/WWD
“Good underwear, a clutch and maybe some suits.”
Ryota Iwai, founder and creative director of Auralee
Ryota Iwai, founder and creative director of Auralee
Courtesy of Auralee
“It’s not necessarily one particular item. It’s more of a mindset. Every person should own clothing that they feel comfortable in, look good in or that they enjoy [as] that’s what is most important.”
Maria Koch, creative director of 032c
Maria Koch
Courtesy of 032c
“Honestly, it’s a janker. It’s like the chicest jacket that you can wear for evening, and it’s just so cool and somehow understated. So whether it’s bouclé, straight shouldered, paisley — super sexy I think.”
Sean Suen
Sean Suen at his men’s fall 2025 show.
Courtesy of Sean Suen
“What always works is a suit. That’s why I’ve always had a strong suit in the beginning [of a show]. It’s a basic but important [part] of menswear. Pay close attention to fit and be comfortable.”
Pierre Mahéo, founder and creative director of Officine Générale
Pierre Mahéo
Courtesy of Officine Générale/Guillaume Roujas
“True winter has finally arrived in New York and Paris, so a coat — but you don’t have to go crazy with color. And a big scarf.”
